Note: This is a scheduled post of our Summer Holidays in Scotland (9th to 25th September, 2022)
Before the weather got crappy in the next days, we maximized our time outdoor, gallivanting on the streets of Glasgow. The pedestrianised shopping areas on Buchanan Street, Argyle Street and St Enoch became animated with buskers and lively charades.
Loyally Royal
Again, an impromptu walkabout in Glasgow to pass our time aimlessly, we headed for George Square. We noticed a crowd thronging the Glasgow City Chambers. We heard about Princess Anne, the Princess Royal coming to Glasgow but we were not aware it was going to be at the spot where the crowd were. Well, why not, eh? We joined in the crowd standing on the 3rd row and struggling to zoom in on the famous daughter of the late Queen Elizabeth II. Princess Anne arrived at 12:15, accompanied by her husband, Sir Timothy Laurence.
By the way, Princess Anne visited the Glasgow City Chambers to meet representatives of the organisation of which the late Queen was patron. M and I joined the crowd and in fleeting moments, we made it to ET Canada news, not very visible but we were there. I’d say, “My nose, mouth and hands met the gracious Princess Royal” . The rest of my body went incognito. LOL!
Glasgow Botanic Gardens
When the crowd started to disperse on George Square, we strode across the road for almost 2 hours to get to the Botanical Gardens on Great Western Road. It was probably the best day to laze and bask in the sun.
Lost and Found
It was also at the Gardens when M and I lost each other for a good half hour. I was taking photos of the majestic Sunflowers. When I turned around, M was no where in sight. We finally met again at the starting point of the Botanical Gardens making it a double full circle squeeze of our energy.
Haggis Pakora. Anyone?
It was at Ashton Lane that we discovered Glasgow’s hidden gem. Loved how the rows of restaurants complement each other. Looked very European. Ashton Lane is a small area, but worth a visit.
With our tummies rumbling away, we combined a late lunch cum early dinner at 17:00 at Ashöka, an Indian restaurant. Interestingly, it’s only in Scotland that haggis pakora is on the menu. Not bad.
For main, I had the slow cooked beef madras curry, while M had lamb curry. Both dishes were served with basmati rice and roti. In hindsight, we should have ordered only one dish as 2 were plenty. We were stuffed!
We walked back to Renfrew Street feeling full, very tired and exhausted from clocking a total of 30k steps and climbing 50 floors with a distance of 25 km
Another day well spent albeit an impromptu one, as always 😬
We knew it was going to be a BEAUTIFUL next day, or was it? 🤔
Note: This is a scheduled post of our Summer Holidays in Scotland (9th to 25th September, 2022)
After a long day the day before, but feeling not too frazzled as we had AJ driving us around Falkirk and warming us up with a bit of Scottish gossip and history. AJ is a Scottish Borderer (originally from Kelso). Our Day Tour to the Scottish Highlands the next day was shepherded by a Glaswegian (Lowlander) who knew the Scottish Highlands like a Highlander but he introduced himself as an ‘Outlander’ 😅
We were up early for breakfast and left the hotel on foot to the bus terminal at Queen Street where the Rabbie’s Coach awaited us on Stance 2-3.
Being one of first to enter the Coach, we took the very front seats just behind the driver’s cockpit separated by a plexiglass that became our “mirror” for the entire day 😂
Our Coach departed from Glasgow Queen Street bus terminal at exactly 08:00. Stuart Hunter was our bubbly and animated Glaswegian guide who talked non-stop, telling us stories and legends of the Scottish Highlands and Highlanders. His Glaswegian accent was the icing on the cake. Loved it!
On the bonnie, bonnie banks o’ Loch Lomond!
I really loved the song when I first heard it many moons ago when Music was one of the many subjects I had to take during my lower secondary school. I didn’t know the story behind the song, let alone, the origin of the song. When Stuart said, “Our next stop is Loch Lomond¨ and then he asked, ΅Does anyone know this song – On the bonnie, bonnie banks o’ Loch Lomond?”. Awkward, but true, I was the only one on the Coach who knew that song. ☺️
Stuart played the 1997 live version at Stirling Castle performed by the Scottish Celtic band, Runrig. I happily lip-synched to the song while recalling my nerve-racking 13-year old me playing the recorder with Mrs Majoribanks listening on. Lol!
By the way, Loch is the Scottish Gaelic word for lake or sea inlet.
Glencoe
It was 10:17 on a lovely 14C morning. We passed many breathtaking landscapes and backdrops of the lochs (lakes), bens (mountains) and glens (valleys) on the way before Stuart stopped the Coach with a dramatic landscape in front of us. Stuart reminded us of the 1969 Bond film with Sean Connery, “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service”, when Bond reveals that his father is from Glencoe! In “Skyfall”, with Daniel Craig as 007, he returns to his Scottish roots to his childhood home, hence the stop of the view of Glen Etive. Glad to be part of an unpremeditated quest for the Bond trail 😜
Magical Harry Potter locations
Scotland is home to many locations from the Harry Potter films. The majestic Glencoe was used for various outdoor scenes: The Goblet of Fire, The Order of the Phoenix, The Half Blood Prince and The Prisoner of Azkaban.
With only 10 minutes to snap our breath away, I managed to get some photos of Glencoe. It’s the short and sweet stop that made our trip worth the while. The leg-stretching did us good and the toilet stops, of course 🙂
Loch Ness
Everyone was looking forward to meeting Nessie, if she’s (still) there. Loch Ness is one of the most touristic locations of the Scottish Highlands as can be seen even before crossing the barrier to Fort Augustus.
Fort Augustus was our main stop for the day where we had our lunch at the Caledonian Canal Brasserie.
The quest for Nessie was on, but where’s Nessie?
All we saw were enchanted looking houses along the Ness with boats and yachts berthing at the pier waiting to attract gullible travellers.
The Ness walk did us good so we were not complaining. It was a lovely walk to the mouth of the lake where I thought I spotted Nessie’s shadow. Can you spot her? 😉
Two hours at Loch Ness in the settlement of Fort Augustus went by in the wink of an eye. But what I was eyeing for most was to have a closed up view of the almost dwindled breed of rustic herds, the Highland Cows (or Heilan/Hielen/ Heeland Coos). They’re easily distinguished from their long horns and long wavy woolly coats. The hair gives protection during the cold winter in the Scottish Highlands. Don’t they look cuddly?
The Highland Cows
The usual coat colour is reddish brown with ca 60% of the population, while the rest are either pale silver, brindle or black. I have not seen the black Heilan Coo. Better luck next time?
Today’s rain is tomorrow’s Whisky
“This is an old Scots saying that expresses innate optimism”, says Stuart.
What proper timing when we stopped at Pitlochry, best known for the whisky distilleries. There are 2 in Pitlochry, one of which produces Edradour. I didn’t have the real thing but the Edradour Highland Single Malt whisky ice cream at £3.30 for one scoop, was to die for.
There are many whisky distilleries in Scotland, but none of them are the same. Every distillery has its own colourful history and unique setting.
Welcome to the land of Whisky 🥃
Homeward Bound
Time to leave the Highlands of Scotland for the Lowland. We arrived at Glasgow Queen Street Bus Terminal at 20:30. It was dark and chilly. A good night’s rest was very much anticipated.
Note: This is a scheduled post of our Summer Holidays in Scotland (9th to 25th September, 2022)
<<< Flashback …
Ringgggg…
I received a call from someone in Scotland, someone I have not met for more than a quarter of a century! It’s great to touch base again. It’s been too long.
The caller had this to say ,”When you decide what time you plan to take the train, let us know.”
>>> Fastforward >>>
Hmmm… who was the mystery caller with a UK number calling me in the hotel room? 🤔
Apparently the mystery caller and I have been WhatsApping for a while. When I told her in June that M and I were going to Scotland in September, she wrote, “We could try to meet up”
MY moved to Scotland more than a decade ago to be with her true love 💕
Well, the last time I met MY in the flesh was back in 1995. We were colleagues back in Kuching. Not only were we colleagues, MY is my maternal cousin! Yup, it’s a small world after all 😀
ScotRail and THAT unforgettable stop!
“Remember to take the train from Glasgow Queen Street and NOT Glasgow Central to Falkirk High”. This reminder was crucial to newbies like us, as it did make a difference where we had to travel within Scotland via ScotRail.
We took the 10:00 train from Glasgow Queen Street Station to Falkirk High (towards Edinburgh). Falkirk is mid-way between Glasgow and Edinburgh. Our ETA was 10:21.
I was so engrossed watching out for the time that as soon as the train stopped at a station at 10:17, we didn’t budge immediately until M saw “Falkirk High” from his side of the window. We got up from our seats and rushed to open the door, but to no avail. The door was fastened tightly and guess what? The train started moving and I saw MY pacing up and down the station platform hoping to see familiar faces to alight. She was not aware we were in the moving train. Alas, it was too late. Yup, we missed our stop!
I immediately texted MY.
“We stopped at Falkirk High, but the door didn’t open for us. I’ve no clue where we are. What do I do now?” Oh shucks! MY didn’t read my messages!
“Where to stop? Please advise. We’re stuck on the train heading for Edinburgh”. Still, no reply. So, we did the best thing we could by stopping at the next station, Polmont. I googled the place, it was about 8 km from Falkirk High and a 10-min drive.
After a quick call to MY, all was solved. We finally met MY and AJ in their red Ford. Phew!
It was lovely listening to a real Scottish accent for a change. AJ drove us to North Queensferry Station and bought us tickets to experience a brief train ride on the Forth Rail Bridge (Red steel bridge). Completed in 1890, it is considered a symbol of Scotland, having been voted Scotland’s greatest man-made wonder in 2016, and is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Overlooking the Red Bridge are the ‘newer’ suspension bridges, the Forth Road Bridge (1964) and the Queensferry Crossing (2017).
By the way, the Queensferry Crossing had appeared on television the entire day on 11th September, 2022 on a worldwide scale as that was the last journey of the late Queen Elizabeth II when her casket was carried en route from Balmoral Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, Edinburgh. Glad to have experienced a part of the soon-to-be-history during our holidays.
A short drive to South Queensferry sealed the deal with the breathtaking view of the 3 bridges running parallel with each other.
With such lovely sunny weather, we couldn’t resist some Scottish ice-cream. The artisanal ice-cream made using grass-fed cow’s milk was exquisite.
The Dutch Inn
Coming to Scotland is not complete without trying haggis. It’s not everyone’s cup of tea, that’s for sure, but I was game for new things, especially foods! Ha ha …
The Chicken Highlander (stuffed with haggis) and the Sticky Toffee Pudding combined were the pièces de résistance of the day. It was pure indulgence 🤪
I was curious about the name of the restaurant, “Dutch Inn” and then I saw Belgian Waffle on the menu card (that’s why …). MY had that and she loved it.
The Kelpies
When MY and AJ asked me what I wanted to see while in Falkirk, I said, “I come to Scotland with an open mind. Bring me to places that will trigger my memory for a long time, ie, somewhere or something I can remember Falkirk by.” AJ knew exactly where he would bring us – The Kelpies!
The Kelpies is a 30-metre high horse head sculpture depicting kelpies (shape-shifting water spirits). The name reflected the mythological transformation beasts possessing the strength and endurance of ten horses; a quality that is analogous with the transformational change and endurance of Scotland’s inland waterways.
The Helix Park is home of The Kelpies and The Kelpies have transformed the area into a 5-star tourist destination. The park was an amazing space, literally and figuratively speaking.
The Falkirk Wheel
It would have been great if we had arrived on time to experience a boat trip of a lifetime rotated by the Falkirk Wheel. Alas, we were a boat too late, however, we managed to watch the Wheel lifting / raising the last incoming boat. Impressive!
The Falkirk Wheel is the only rotating boat lift of its kind in the world. Although we didn’t get to experience the lift, it was awesome just watching the Wheel turning.
Stirling Castle
We hit the road heading for one of the most popular Castles in Scotland where a string of Hollywood movies and Netflix series were shot: Game of Thrones, Outlander, Monty Python and the Holy Grail, just to name a few.
Oops! Late again. We reached the parking lot of Stirling Castle at 17:45, a bit too late as the last entry into the Castle was 17:15.
The inside of the Castle would be great, but what we saw outside of the Castle was enriching in itself. Each landmark and statue tells a story.
The Star Pyramid, aka Salem Rock is a massive sandstone, ashlar pyramid dominating the area below the Stirling Castle beside the Old Town Cemetery. The Pyramid is dedicated to all those who suffered martyrdom in the cause of civil and religious liberty in Scotland.
The statue of Robert the Bruce on the esplanade at Stirling Castle looking out at the William Wallace Memorial was captivating. King Robert I was one of the most renowned warriors of his generation. He led Scotland during the First War of Scottish Independence against England and fought successfully to regain Scotland’s place as an Independent kingdom. Robert is now revered in Scotland as a national hero. Now I understand why the Scottish people are craving for independence post Brexit
Stirling Castle was also the childhood home of Mary, Queen of Scots and it was there that William Wallace’s Braveheart speech: “Freedom!” was filmed, portrayed by Mel Gibson
Homeward bound …
It was a fulfilling day spent with AJ and MY. We would not have thought of going for that short train ride on the Forth Rail Bridge to watch the historical Queensferry Crossing that marked the last journey of QEII. We would not have thought of visiting the mythological horse head sculpture or watching the raising and lifting of boats powered by the majestic Wheel. Thanks MY and AJ 🤗
We headed back to Glasgow from Falkirk High. It was 20:00, cold and dark when we reached Glasgow Queen Street.
An early next day start awaited us for another full Day Tour of the Highlands with the many lochs, bens, glens and coos.
Note: This is a scheduled post of our Summer Holidays in Scotland (9th to 25th September, 2022)
10 hours, that’s how long I slept. It was a much needed sleep after the mental and physical agony the past 24 hours.
Customer is King
Shucks, still no internet connection! That’s definitely not expected for a 4-star hotel. After being told 3 times by the Front Desk staff that it was due to our iPhone settings – erm … Fibs! – we had to call in the Duty Manager to check out our room for himself. Spot on! ZERO internet connection. We were immediately checked out from Room 1208 to the 8th Floor. Et voilà, seamless connection!
The age-old mantra of the ‘Customer is King’ is not just a cliché but was tried and true in our case.
A Scottish Breakfast
While travelling on the Caledonian Sleeper from London Euston to Glasgow Central, we could have ordered a traditional Scottish breakfast of Haggis, sausage, baked beans, tatties, tomatoes, mushrooms and toast. We didn’t go for that for the obvious reason that 6am was way too early to consume such a hearty breakfast. Hear ye, hear ye! For the next 7 mornings in Glasgow, we had no choice but to indulge ourselves in the daily wholesome Scottish brekkie 😄
The great Scottish brekkie pumped tons of energy in our body systems to enable us to sustain an almost 3 hours walk to Glasgow Cathedral from our hotel. We read about the Cathedral being the oldest Medieval Cathedral in mainland Scotland and the oldest building in Glasgow, hence, we had to see it for ourselves, with no regrets.
The Cathedral is dedicated to Saint Mungo, the patron Saint of Glasgow, whose tomb lies at the centre of the building’s Lower Church.
An impressive interior considering the building being the oldest building in Glasgow!
With the recent passing of QEII, Glasgow was also mourning. Several people paid their last respect to the late Queen by placing bouquets beside her obituary.
Glasgow Necropolis
We walked to the nearby cemetery, the Glasgow Necropolis.
The Necropolis remains one of the most significant cemeteries in Europe, exceptional in its townscape, its symbolic relationship to Glasgow Cathedral and the mediaeval heart of the city. In common with the other major Victorian cemeteries, it was designed as a botanic and sculpture garden to improve the morals and tastes of Glaswegians and act as an historical record of past greatness. 50,000 individuals have been buried there. Every grave has a stone.
The Glasgow Necropolis reminded me of Père Lachaise Cemetery in Paris. Glasgow native, Billy Conolly has said, “Glasgow is a bit like Nashville, Tennessee. It doesn’t care much for the living, but it really looks after the dead.” 😬
Scottish Greats
I didn’t know David Livingstone was Scottish! I knew he’s an Explorer in Africa. By the way, the popular ViaVia Travellers’ Cafés in Belgium was inspired by Livingstone.
Another Scottish great name worldwide is James Watt. What? Yes, Watt, the unit of power used in the international system of units to quantify the rate of energy transfer. The statue of James Watt stands in the corner of George Square
With all the walks, nature’s call came on spontaneously. It was lovely to find a little Spanish oasis in the city centre, not far from George Square.
Café Andaluz City Centre on St Vincent Place is a Spanish/ Catalan tapas restaurant. We had the pre-theatre menu of 3 tapas. I had grilled asparagus topped with grated Manchego cheese, lemon hollandaise and crushed blackpepper, fried calamari rings served with fresh lemon and smoked paprika aioli and the classic Spanish chicken dish cooked with garlic, rosemary and red chillies
The Spanish experience was a superb choice. Everything was spot on – fast service, friendly staff and great food.
We returned to our hotel, feeling hopeful for positive days ahead.
Ringgggg…
I received a call on my mobile phone from someone in Scotland, someone I have not met for more than a quarter of a century! Boy, it’s great to touch base again. It’s been too long.
The caller had this to say, “When you decide what time you plan to take the train, let us know.”
So, our journey to the ‘unknown’ continued mid-way between Glasgow and Edinburgh. Looking forward already 😉
Note: This is a scheduled post of our Summer Holidays in Scotland (9th to 25th September, 2022)
Breaking News … Britain’s Queen Elizabeth II has died at the age of 96 in Balmoral, Scotland according to Buckingham Palace.
It was 18:30 on 8th Sept, 2022. I was busy packing for our maiden 15-day trip to Scotland and was very excited at the prospect of the trip especially when hubby and I had been planning – and fingers crossing – for a seamless vacation 3 months prior. The news of the Queen’s death, although sadly received, jolted a surge of anxiety.
We’re to leave for Scotland the next day. The first thing that came to mind was, “what will become of our holidays?”
It’s All About … Trains and Stations in one Evening!
It’s Friday, 9th Sept, M and I left the house at 15:00 for our train journey from Leuven to Brussels South Station. There was a large congregation of people at the station, more precisely, holiday-makers waiting for the check-in turnstile to open to board the Eurostar to London St Pancras International.
Our ETD was 18:52. A serene arrival awaited us at London St Pancras International as we saw frames after frames of photos and posters in the Underground, shops, streets – practically in every nook and cranny – of the late Monarch, QEII.
From London St Pancras International, we took the Underground at King’s Cross to London Euston Station.
It’s been almost 6 hours since we left Flanders and we’d been IN and OUT of train stations and we had not yet arrived at our final destination. We still had to board our last and final train to Glasgow with an ETD of 23:50 ! Thank goodness the open space at London Euston Station was a breath of fresh air, literally speaking.
While our best buddy is our cellphone when time passes by at snail speed, dining in at Nando’s seemed to get the clock ticking at supersonic speed.
It was a short and quick dinner but it ticked the box of passing our time idly while waiting for our most long awaited Sleeper Train.
The Caledonian Sleeper Lowlander: London Euston to Glasgow Central
Le moment suprême est arrivé! This was the moment we were looking forward to. Our first experience in a Sleeper Train. How cool was that … 🤔
The Caledonian Sleeper is a gateway of overnight rail service with the comfort of travelling between London and Scotland. I bet most Scottish and English travellers have used this mode of commutation, but the level of comfort is subjective …
By the way, there are 2 routes, (1) the Caledonian Sleeper Highlander route that runs between London Euston to the Highlands of Fort Williams, Inverness and Aberdeen and (2) the Caledonian Sleeper Lowlander route that runs between London Euston and Glasgow Central or Edinburgh Waverley.
We took the Lowlander route to Glasgow for approximately 7 hours journey.
First impression? Very impressive, indeed. Very long train with split coaches that carry passengers to Edinburgh and Glasgow. It’s critical that passengers board the right coach either Edinburgh or Glasgow because the train will ‘split’ at a certain point of time in the wee hours of the morning. Be warned that you do not wake up in the wrong city 😅
We boarded coach K heading for Glasgow Central Station.
While the exterior was impressive, the interior was “What?!” Super narrow corridor. That was my first impression. Ha ha ..
We had the Club Room with an en-suite bathroom and shower inclusive of breakfast. Not going to lie, the room was tiny with bunk beds, a small sink or washbasin with a hidden foldable table under the sink that could be pulled out making the room very KonMari.
The first task we had to fulfil upon checking in was to place our orders for breakfast and indicate our preferred time of room service. Since we would be arriving in Glasgow at 07:20, we had no choice but to have an early breakfast at 06:00. We could have ordered a traditional Scottish breakfast of Haggis, sausage, baked beans, tatties, tomatoes, mushrooms and toast, but my 6 am tummy says “No can do!” It’s a shame because I would love to try the Haggis brekkie 😀
Instead, we ordered (room service) the Muesli Yoghurt, Orange juice, and coffee/tea. My tummy was still digesting from the Nando’s grilled chicken some 8 hours earlier …
Claustrophobia?
Hmmm … our first experience walking into a compact travel capsule. I won’t say it’s a minimalist way of travel at all, because we had the ‘comfort’ of a hotel experience on rail, however, I will not recommend anyone who has claustrophobia to travel with the Sleeper.
I slept on the lower bunk with a view of the ladder to the upper bunk, a tiny washbasin, a window and the door leading to the ensuite toilet cum shower.
The toilet is a shower room as well. When the cover is lifted, it’s a toilet complete with a toilet roll and flush. When the cover comes down, the space becomes a shower. Cool innit?
Freebies and Creepy-Crawlies
The Club Room included Scottish freebies of hand and body lotion, conditioning shampoo, hand and body wash and a bottle of pillow spray! There’s also a sleep kit containing ear plugs and eye masks.
Due to time constraint, we didn’t use any of the items except for the hand and body wash and the pillow spray. In hindsight, I should have sprayed the entire bed! To be honest, I could not sleep a wink despite how tired I was. Felt some creepy-crawlies were sharing my bed the entire night. I was so awake that I counted the Sleeper stopped 3 times. The first stop was for half an hour from 02:17 to 02:47. My guess was that the Coaches to Edinburgh splitted ways. The subsequent 2 stops were shorter for a 10-minute stop each.
Glasgow
A peek out of the window looked promising with acres of green pastures and mountains. I was looking forward to my Scottish experience already 😉
The Sleeper arrived on time at 07:20 at Glasgow Central. It’s only then I realised we were in the UK listening to another level of the English ….ooops, sorry, Scottish or Glaswegian language and accents. Time for us to bring our ears closer to the speaker’s mouth. Ha ha ..